Exploring the Island of Kea
For years, I had always found an excuse to not visit the beautiful island of Kea, also known as Tzia. However, this summer, we finally made our way there for a weekend getaway. With recommendations from friends and colleagues overflowing, we had to narrow down our itinerary to fit everything into just two days on this stunning Cycladic island.
Our first day began with a refreshing swim at Xyla Beach on the east coast of Kea. While the beach had some amenities like umbrellas and loungers, we found a secluded spot to set up our own beach tent. Sykamia and Spathi beaches were also breathtaking, although they lacked any services, so we made sure to bring everything we needed for a day of sun and relaxation.
Discovering the Beautiful Beaches of Tzia
Driving along the bumpy dirt tracks of Tzia, we were amazed by the sheer number of beaches this island has to offer. With over 50 beaches to explore, we barely scratched the surface of what Tzia has to offer. Otzias, in particular, is a popular spot for families with young children, but it can get quite noisy and crowded, with loungers extending all the way to the water’s edge.
Exploring the Western Part of the Island
As we made our way around the western part of the island, we found ourselves at Ellinika, where we were greeted by breathtaking views of the sun setting over Gialiskari beach. This sandy beach, located near the main town of Ioulida, is dotted with tamarisk trees providing much-needed shade. While there is a lively bar at one end, the music dies down in the afternoon, creating a relaxing atmosphere. Pisses and Koundouros beaches, known for their crystal-clear waters, are also worth a visit.
A Charming Breakfast Spot in Vourkari
For breakfast, we headed to Vourkari and stumbled upon a quaint village cafe called Peek A Bloom. This all-day cafe was once a favorite in Athens before relocating to Tzia two years ago. Situated along the seaside road in Vourkari, Peek A Bloom offers a charming setting to enjoy a leisurely meal while taking in the beautiful surroundings.
Exploring the Culinary Delights of Kea Island
Kea Island, located in the Cyclades, is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. As we strolled around its charming small harbor, we stumbled upon a quaint café that caught our attention.
The café, known for its delicious coffee sourced from a local roastery called Mind The Cup, offers a variety of Brazilian blends that are a favorite among locals and tourists alike. The coffee here is said to be the best on the island, with its rich aroma and bold flavor leaving a lasting impression.
In addition to coffee, the café also serves an array of breakfast options, freshly baked cakes, tasty sandwiches, and refreshing drinks. It’s the perfect spot to fuel up before exploring the island.
Indulging in Homemade Treats in Ioulida
Our journey continued to Ioulida, the laid-back capital of Kea, where we made a pit stop at Tyrakeion, a family-owned shop known for its homemade ice cream and cheese. The Mykoniatis brothers take pride in crafting their products, using only the finest ingredients sourced locally.
Their ice cream, with its creamy texture and rich flavors, is a must-try. We couldn’t resist the rice pudding flavor, which had a hint of cinnamon and a touch of sweetness. It was evident that each scoop was made with love and care, making it a delightful treat for the taste buds.
We were so impressed by Tyrakeion’s offerings that we even brought some ice cream back home with us as a reminder of our culinary adventure on Kea Island.
Exploring the Natural Beauty of Kea
Driving through the scenic countryside from Ioulida to Kato Meria, we were greeted by a picturesque landscape filled with oak trees and terraced vineyards. The lush greenery and rolling hills painted a serene backdrop, inviting us to explore the beauty of Kea’s natural surroundings.
As we journeyed through the island’s hinterland, we couldn’t help but marvel at the tranquility and charm of Kea. It was a truly unforgettable experience that left us with a deep appreciation for this hidden paradise in the Cyclades.
Exploring the Green Side of Tzia
Exploring the island of Tzia, we were amazed by its lush green landscapes that made us momentarily forget we were in the dry Cyclades. Despite being known for its arid climate, Tzia boasts around 60% of forests and woods that are part of protected areas within the Natura network.
A Taste of Tradition at Ta Poularakia
Our destination in Kato Meria was Ta Poularakia, a quaint roadside kafeneio owned by Dinos Vrettos and Eleni Rousounelou. Dinos, a local native, grew up in a family of livestock farmers and learned the art of butchering pigs and making sausages from a young age. A true meat enthusiast, he decided to open a taverna in his village, reviving a space that had been closed for years.
“What I used to prepare for guests at home, I now share with the visitors who come here,” he proudly states.
Dinos takes pride in his delicious handmade cold meats at Poularakia. With a small farm housing 160 sheep and goats, as well as black and white pigs, he crafts three varieties of mouthwatering sausages. His loza, a traditional aged cold meat of the island, ranks high on my list of favorites in the Cyclades. Its rich dark color is a testament to the quality and expertise behind its preparation.
The Art of Curing Meats
When it comes to curing meats, one must pay attention to the age of the meat and the seasonings used. The older the pig, the darker the meat will be, resulting in a richer flavor. Pepper and wine are essential ingredients in the curing process, adding depth and complexity to the final product.
Unique Flavors and Techniques
A master at his craft, the artisan behind these cured meats smokes his products with a blend of fig, pear, oak, and sage. He explains that the drying process requires a cold northerly wind, taking 40 days to achieve the perfect texture and flavor.
In addition to traditional cured meats, he offers two unique sausage varieties. One is packed with spices, wine, and fresh savory, while the other, named Alladin, is a long-aged sausage flavored with paprika and garlic. These distinct flavors showcase the artisan’s creativity and expertise.
A Culinary Delight
During our visit, we savored not only the delicious cured meats but also indulged in black pig pork chops, lamb chops, and local cheese. The attention to detail was evident in every dish, including the vibrant horiatiki salad with juicy tomatoes at room temperature.
For those seeking an authentic culinary experience, this artisan’s creations are a true delight for the senses. (tel 22880-24.351)
The businesses and products featured in this article were carefully selected by the writer and are not endorsed for commercial purposes. This article was originally published in Kathimerini’s gastronomy magazine, Gastronomos.
