Discovering Cretan Hospitality
“In Crete, the stranger is still the unknown god. Before him all doors and all hearts are opened.” – Nikos Kazantzakis
With a sense of trepidation, I approach a quaint house tucked away on a quiet street in Hania. A woman with silver hair answers my knock and regards me with curious eyes. “I apologize for intruding,” I manage to say in a Greek accent that betrays my American roots. “Your neighbor mentioned that you create the finest pites in the area. I’m compiling a cookbook and would love to chat if you have a moment…”
Before I can complete my thought, the woman—let’s call her Ioanna, with the respectful title Kyria—ushers me into her kitchen and invites me to sit at her table. She opens her freezer, revealing a collection of dough squares, each about the size of a ravioli, explaining that she always prepares extra for later. With deft hands, she places them in a frying pan with a splash of her own olive oil, all while brewing a small cup of rich Greek coffee. Within minutes, I’m savoring a pastry delicately drizzled with honey, oozing with a piquant white cheese that brings warmth to my palate.
As I indulge in her delicious creation, I attempt to jot down notes while Kyria Ioanna regales me with stories and shares her recipes, all while stirring a pot that fills the air with enticing aromas. Gradually, family members drift in and out, and before I know it, lunch is upon us. Feeling awkward, I prepare to excuse myself, but the warmth of their invitation makes it clear that leaving would be impolite.
A Recurrent Theme of Generosity
This delightful experience was not an isolated incident; it unfolded repeatedly during my visits to Crete in the late 1990s while I conducted research for a book that would eventually be titled “Feasting & Fasting in Crete.” No matter where I roamed on the island, the kindness and hospitality of its people remained unwavering—perhaps even more pronounced in the villages than in urban areas.
My astonishment at this generosity should have been tempered by a story my husband, who hails from Athens, shared about a camping trip to western Crete in the 1960s. Once the locals discovered them, he and his first wife were never allowed to eat alone. Instead, they received dinner invitations at various homes every evening, and after several days, they found themselves overwhelmed by the abundant hospitality, often sneaking away at dusk to escape the relentless kindness.
Embarking on a Culinary Journey
Yet, I am still amazed at the audacity I displayed when I set off in my Fiat Panda, determined to uncover the secrets of Cretan cuisine all on my own. Naturally, I had friends and acquaintances who had offered their support, but the journey was fundamentally mine to explore, one delectable encounter at a time.
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Discovering Culinary Treasures in Crete
Before embarking on my journey to Crete, friends had eagerly shared recommendations for talented cooks and enthusiastic food lovers. Upon my arrival, each new acquaintance seemed to introduce me to even more culinary gems, making the adventure all the more exciting.
My exploration began in Irakleio, where I stayed with my husband’s nephew and his wife. Once I settled in, I set out to uncover the culinary delights of the eastern part of the island. It was October 1997 when I was welcomed into the luxurious Elounda Mare resort by Elianna Kokotou, who had graciously offered her hospitality in a private bungalow. Elianna had assured my friend Anne that the hotel and its exceptional staff would cater to my every need.
A Personal Cooking Experience
The very next day, after an enjoyable lunch, I found myself in the Porto Elounda’s spacious kitchen for a personalized cooking demonstration. Ypapandi Velivasaki, with her joyful demeanor and lively spirit, turned simple ingredients like zucchini flowers and vine leaves from her garden into delightful mini dolmadakia. As she deftly stirred the mixture with her hands, her cheerful chatter attracted the attention of the kitchen staff, transforming the lesson into a lively gathering. When the dishes were ready, we all shared an impromptu feast.
A Heartwarming Visit
Later that evening, a hotel maid took me on a delightful 30-minute journey to her family home in the quaint village of Krousta. There, I was warmly welcomed into their inviting living room and kitchen, where I learned how to use a souvlaki skewer to shape homemade pasta into long, thick strands resembling double macaroni. Maria Pangalou, the host, boiled some of our freshly made pasta for dinner, all while preparing her two-burner gas cooker in front of a cozy fireplace surrounded by jars of seasonings and her own olive oil.
Maria also shared her homemade cheese, bread, and wine, all while recounting how she crafted her daughter’s dowry, including sheets, curtains, and tablecloths from delicate wool and silk threads. With a hint of nostalgia, she mentioned that the curtains remained unused in a trunk because her daughter’s husband preferred store-bought ones.
A Sweet Pastry Lesson
My culinary journey continued two evenings later when I had the pleasure of learning about pastries from Kyria Georgia in Piskokefalo, a charming village south of Siteia. I must have gotten her contact from someone at the hotel and arranged our meeting over the phone. This lesson promised to be extraordinary; before we began, she graciously served me a generous slice of a honey-soaked walnut cake that was simply irresistible.
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A Night of Cretan Hospitality
Despite my attempts to resist, the allure of delectable pies was too strong to ignore. After the evening’s lesson and news segment, I found myself in the kitchen with Georgia’s husband, Iosif, sharing stories over a generous supply of homemade wine.
We lingered until the clock struck midnight. Although I would never envision hosting a dinner party centered around five different types of pie paired with cake, it became a night etched in my memory. When the evening concluded, they kindly filled my car with bags of their homegrown raisins (Siteia is celebrated as the raisin capital of Crete), assorted pies, some cake, and a bottle of homemade raki, the local spirit, saying it was “for your husband.” By the time I was ready to depart for Athens, my car was so packed it could have passed for a Cretan market on wheels.
Discovering Local Delights in Kato Zakros
The pinnacle of Cretan hospitality awaited me as I traveled east from Siteia to Kato Zakros. This area is known for its crescent beach, quaint tavernas, and modest hotels, along with the remnants of a Minoan palace nestled behind them. I had heard from an archaeologist friend about a woman named Mary Daskalaki who owned a taverna there. Upon arrival at the eatery, her son informed me that she had retired, but we arranged to meet at her home in Zakros the following day.
As I made my way through the “Gorge of the Dead” beyond the ancient site, I ascended the hill to the larger village, where Mary warmly welcomed me. She spent the morning sharing treasured recipes, filling my arms with bags of dried marjoram and thyme harvested from the hills, and then led me to a communal kitchen, a humble structure on the outskirts of town. Here, five men and women were busily preparing a feast for a baptism that evening. One woman was busy stuffing tiny sausages, while others chopped fresh vegetables for a salad, and the men simmered goat broth in two large cauldrons for the traditional celebratory pasta (in western Crete, it would have been pilaf). Mary added her own contribution of dolmades to the mix. After chatting for a bit, they graciously invited me to the baptism celebration, and Mary encouraged me to visit her sister’s home “just a short walk up the road,” mentioning they were baking bread in their outdoor oven.
Joining in the Bread-Making Tradition
With a hint of shyness, I peeked into the courtyard where three individuals gathered around a large, soot-covered oven, with five tall wooden paddles and rakes leaning against the white wall nearby. I introduced myself, mentioning, “Mary sent me,” and was instantly welcomed. Mary’s sister, Alexandra Nerolidou, expressed her regret that I hadn’t arrived a bit earlier, as she had just finished kneading 30 kilos of flour, which, combined with her sourdough starter, would yield 40 loaves of bread. Most of these loaves would be transformed into paximadia (rusks), ensuring the extended family had provisions for two months.
Though I was disappointed to have missed the kneading spectacle, I relished the delightful conversation with her and her co-in-laws, Irini and Yannis, as they prepared for the baking festivities ahead.
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Experiencing Cretan Hospitality
As I waited for the bread to finish baking, I found myself captivated by the scene unfolding before me. The moment the loaves were moved onto wooden boards in the courtyard, the 77-year-old Irini gracefully lowered herself to slice the crusty bread with hands that had endured years of labor. After they returned the bread to the oven for further baking, I tried to express my gratitude and bid farewell to the family. However, Alexandra seized my arm, leading me to join Irini and her family for lunch.
A Bountiful Feast
It was evident that Irini had been tirelessly preparing the meal while Alexandra was busy with the dough, as the table was already adorned for seven with an abundance of dishes. The spread included fried anchovies, succulent roast chicken paired with okra and potatoes, a fresh salad, and of course, the newly baked bread, complemented by generous servings of raki and wine. While we savored the meal, Yannis began recounting tales from his past: the struggles endured during the war, his treks to Siteia with mules to deliver supplies to German and Italian forces, and the romantic escapade that led him to elope with Irini.
A Love Story from the Past
“This was back in the early 1950s,” Yannis reminisced. “We traveled on foot, and when we reached a river, I carried her across on my back. We spent the night in a cave, and when we returned, no one could object to our love anymore, so we decided to marry.”
Feeling Like Family
At this point, I felt a sense of belonging, as if I were part of their family. Eventually, as a gesture of appreciation, I took a loaf of fresh bread and prepared to leave, but I couldn’t resist the pull of the upcoming baptism celebration.
Farewell to Alexandra
The following day, I stopped by to bid farewell to Alexandra, who was busy preparing for her next event. I learned that she was renowned in Zakros for her exquisite xerotigana—thin, spiral pastries traditionally served at Cretan weddings. She sighed, expressing her eagerness for the wedding season to conclude, as hosting a thousand guests was quite the undertaking, leaving her utterly worn out. As our conversation continued, I inquired about other specialties she might be known for. To my surprise, she mentioned that she was also skilled in casting out the evil eye. I chuckled and assured her that I was fortunate enough to not need her expertise in that regard. I felt truly blessed and could have easily imagined staying in Zakros indefinitely.
The Essence of Cretan Culture
While hospitality can be found throughout Greece, the richness of the experience truly comes alive in Crete.
